The first thing you should know about Puerto Rico's pork highway is that it almost doesn't exist at all. This is hard to believe after seeing both Anthony Bourdain and Andrew Zimmern salivate so much they needed to rehydrate intravenously, but it's true.
In San Juan, all you can find is American chain-restaurants. It's not problem to get a side of beef at the Outback Steakhouse, or get a hash-brown puck at a McDonald's. Local, genuine Puerto Rican cuisine though, that was not to be found anywhere in the city.
The coffee of Puerto Rico is supposed to be something of legend. It's so good, say the guide books, that it's almost impossible to buy off the island because the locals drink it all. Well in San Juan, we couldn't get Puerto Rican coffee - not because it was all taken, but because no one knew what they were serving.
Once you head inland though, the landscape becomes more mountainous and claustrophobic, but the local food choices become MUCH more expansive. We hopped in our trusty rental car and made our way to foodie heaven - the pork highway.
Basically, if you want authentic, genuine Puerto Rican food, you're going to have to get out of San Juan and go look for it. It's hidden back in the mountains and jungles and it can be hard to find, but it's there. Happily the pork trail that is la ruta de lechon is much easier to find than most other local cuisine.
Look on the map for the town of Guavate, but please realize that this isn't your goal. Your goal is the Pork Highway, and that is highway 184 that leads to Guavate. There are lechoneras (pork stands) all along highway 184.
Just take highway 52 to 184 and immediately after exiting 52 you'll be drenched in the smell of roasting pig. Just pull over at any building with a pig on a metal spit and you've found your place to have lunch.
Whether getting it to go or staying there, the pork is measured by the pound. Just let them know at the counter how much you want, and they'll do the rest. They'll hack off a good mix of magical meat for you covering all the major demographics (shoulder, butt, face, skin, etc.), so all you have to do is just sit back and enjoy yourself.
In San Juan, all you can find is American chain-restaurants. It's not problem to get a side of beef at the Outback Steakhouse, or get a hash-brown puck at a McDonald's. Local, genuine Puerto Rican cuisine though, that was not to be found anywhere in the city.
The coffee of Puerto Rico is supposed to be something of legend. It's so good, say the guide books, that it's almost impossible to buy off the island because the locals drink it all. Well in San Juan, we couldn't get Puerto Rican coffee - not because it was all taken, but because no one knew what they were serving.
Once you head inland though, the landscape becomes more mountainous and claustrophobic, but the local food choices become MUCH more expansive. We hopped in our trusty rental car and made our way to foodie heaven - the pork highway.
Basically, if you want authentic, genuine Puerto Rican food, you're going to have to get out of San Juan and go look for it. It's hidden back in the mountains and jungles and it can be hard to find, but it's there. Happily the pork trail that is la ruta de lechon is much easier to find than most other local cuisine.
Look on the map for the town of Guavate, but please realize that this isn't your goal. Your goal is the Pork Highway, and that is highway 184 that leads to Guavate. There are lechoneras (pork stands) all along highway 184.
Just take highway 52 to 184 and immediately after exiting 52 you'll be drenched in the smell of roasting pig. Just pull over at any building with a pig on a metal spit and you've found your place to have lunch.
Whether getting it to go or staying there, the pork is measured by the pound. Just let them know at the counter how much you want, and they'll do the rest. They'll hack off a good mix of magical meat for you covering all the major demographics (shoulder, butt, face, skin, etc.), so all you have to do is just sit back and enjoy yourself.
About the Author:
Want to take budget and exotic trips around the world? Or read a vacation guide about one of the best cities in it? Check out DiscoverWithAndy.
No comments:
Post a Comment